Installing "Rubber
Back" Carpet
CRI does not
recommend do-it-yourself installation of conventional carpet with
or without separate pad. Proper procedures, including stretching
and seaming, are best done by a qualified, professional installer
following CRI standards for installation of residential (CRI 105)
or commercial (CRI 104) carpet.
However, carpet
with attached cushion can be installed for residential use by
the do-it-yourselfer. The attached cushion makes carpet rolls
lightweight and easy to handle. With a few simple, inexpensive
tools and double-faced tape, you can complete a beautiful, quality
installation in no time. (Professional installers will find that
carpet with attached cushion can be installed quickly and easily
using a good quality, low VOC, multi-purpose adhesive.)
The tools
you will need are: A utility knife with extra blades, a pry
bar, a putty knife, a metal measuring tape, a hammer and scissors.
If you have to make a seam, you’ll need a string chalk line, a
straight edge or a cushion-back carpet cutter. Carpet seam sealer
adhesive is also required for seams and may be purchased at any
carpet supply shop, or at home improvement or do-it-yourself stores
that sell carpet.
Measure
first. Measure the area before you buy the carpet. Be sure
to measure to the center of doorways and to the back of closets.
Installation
with Double-Faced Tape
It's a good idea to measure the room again, then pre-cut the
carpet 4" to 6" larger than the room size.
NOTE: If you have to make a seam, do it first! (See
seaming instructions below)
1. Prepare the room. If possible, remove all furniture from this
room. This will allow you to maneuver the carpet into the room
and place it without obstructions. If the room has shoe moulding
remove the shoe mold using a pry bar and hammer. (Shoe mold, sometimes
referred to as 1/4 round, is the small strip of wood at the intersection
of the baseboard and floor. Do not remove baseboards). Take extra
care not to break the fragile pieces. Remove the doors by taking
the pins out of the hinges. The bottom of the doors may have to
be trimmed to allow them to swing freely over the new carpet when
installed
2. Put
double-faced carpet tape around the perimeter of the room and
place 12" x 12" crosses on four-foot intervals in the middle of
the room. Leave the protective cover on the tape for now.
3. Position
the carpet in the room, centering it. Let the 2" to 3" surplus
run up the walls equally. If one wall has no thresholds
or projections it is all right to butt the carpet up to the wall
and trim the other three sides.
4. Fold
one half of the carpet back over itself, peel the protective cover
off the tape and replace the carpet, smoothing out the carpet
from the center of the room toward the walls. Repeat for the other
half of the room.
5.
On the sides which must be trimmed, use a stiff putty knife to
crease the carpet at a 90-degree angle at the joint of the floor
and the wall. Trim off the surplus carpet, making sure you have
a sharp blade in your utility knife. Be sure to hold the knife
almost parallel to the floor and cut in the crease. Walk along
this edge to fasten it to the tape.
Installation
with Staples
Staples can be used instead of tape. Use heavy duty staples
a minimum of 1/2" long. Do not use more staples than are necessary
to hold the carpet down securely. On hardwood it may be necessary
to tap the staple with a small hammer to drive it in fully. Do
this immediately after shooting each staple.
Installation
with Multi-Purpose Adhesive
Any good multi-purpose adhesive may be used with attached
carpet cushions. After positioning the carpet in the room (see
step #3) fold one half of the carpet back over itself, apply the
adhesive (following manufacturers instructions) to the floor.
After proper "tack time" lay the carpet into the adhesive and
then do the other half of the room. Trim the carpet as mentioned
in step #5.
Making
A Seam
On all seams, you will need to position the second piece of
carpet so that it runs in the same direction as the first. This
is very important.
When you have
determined how the two pieces of carpet will lie in the room,
you’ll want to start by getting the straightest edge possible
on the piece you will cut first. If using the cushion back carpet
cutter you may make your cuts from the face side of the carpet.
Follow proper seaming procedures supplied with the Carpet Cutter.
If using a utility knife, fold the carpet over and, using a chalk
line, mark where you wish to cut on the back of the carpet. Using
the straight edge, trim the carpet as straight as you can, cutting
through the back of the carpet.
Position both
pieces of carpet properly in the room. Make sure that the edge
of the trimmed piece is where you want your seam, and that you
have enough carpet on either side to reach the walls and doorways.
With the uncut piece of carpet on the floor, place the edge of
the trimmed piece on top overlapping at least 2". Use the trimmed
edge of the cut piece as a guide to cut the other piece.
Fold back
both sides and place one strip of 3" double-faced tape, centering
the line or two strips of double-faced tape parallel to the line,
one on each side of the line. Remove the protective paper from
the tape, keeping the carpet folded back.
Apply a bead
of seam sealer along the edge of the cushion-backed carpet. A
plastic bottle with a long thin neck works best. Apply seam adhesive
to only one edge of the carpet.
Complete the
seam by butting both sections of the carpet together while the
adhesive is still wet, allowing the carpet and cushion to make
contact with the tape and seam sealer at the same time. Be sure
to keep carpet fiber up and away from the seam sealer. (Professional
installers may use hot melt seaming tape on premium attached cushions.
The seaming iron will not harm or melt the cushion.)
Finishing
Your Installation
Smears of adhesive on the carpet surface can be cleaned with
a non-flammable solvent and clean cloth if cleaning is done while
adhesive is still wet.
If the edge
of the carpet at a doorway must be butted up against carpeting
in the next room or hall, follow the same procedure for seaming
described above. If there is sufficient carpet, most installers
prefer to butt the two pieces in the section directly under the
door when the door is closed, making a neater looking installation
from both sides. If needed, you may also wish to use metal binding
strips found at any hardware store or home center.
